Top designers go gaga over traditional crafts at FDCI & Lakme Fashion Week

The pandemic has prompted the dispositions of ace designers to steer the direction and focus of bridal fashion towards traditional craft techniques like  Chikankari, Jamdani, Pichwai, Pakeezagi, Ragrez, Brocade, and whatnot.

Creativity on the runaway was the order of the day at the recent FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week as the country’s noted designers like Tarun Tahiliani, Guarang Shah, and others put an arresting show by presenting their latest collection imbued with an array of alluring colors and textures.

A live digital design film was played at the event showcasing the Reunion collection by Tarun Tahiliani’s featured designs created from fabrics such as organza, silk, brocade, tulle, raw silk. The Autumn/Winter ‘21 collection was a fusion of craft techniques brought to the forefront as a part of mini capsule collections which included namely Molten Haveli, Temple Mauli, Pichwai, Chikankari, Pakeezagi, Divine Drapes, Shesh Mahal, Ragrez, and Brocade.

While creativity on the runway plays an important role in showcasing a collection, Tarun is also of the opinion that it should not take away attention from the clothes. “If the said pieces are not presented in the correct manner, mood and theme then it would not have the desired impact which it wishes to create in the mind of the viewers and audiences. Therefore, creativity on the runway is important. However, having said that it is equally necessary that it should not take away from the pieces on display and they should be the prime focus throughout the event.

traditional crafts at FDCI & Lakme Fashion Week
Form Gaurang Shah Collection

A new collection by Guarang Shah entitled Chaand presents diverse weaves — woven in Benaras, Kota, Srikakulam, Uppada, Venkatagiri, Kashmir, and Paithan, they were later embroidered by craftsmen. In some cases, a single sari has been worked upon by two or three artisan clusters.

These 40 saris were conceptualized three years ago and craft clusters that liaise with Gaurang began working in advance, thus minimizing the impact of the pandemic and lockdown on this collection.

Shah has also experimented with Rajasthan miniature style painting, Krishna motifs, and Raja Ravi Varma paintings by employing the designs over jamdani on khadi Srikakulam and Paithani on organza.

Last year has been enduring for the designers and artisans alike but as the industry comes out of the doldrums, traditional crafts coupled with creativity and imagination will always come to rescue.

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